Healthy Toppings For Popcorn

The mountain, we win it!

On the road that took us to El Chaten we met Kate, a Canadian ...

... and some guanacos.

The roads are unpaved, buses are protected and we shake it is!

we decided to hike together in the park nationnal Los Glaciares. Therefore, our drop point was the hostel El Rancho Grande where we found place in a well heated dormitory while the storm raged outside.
Here in this corner of Patagonia, Argentina, geography offers the possibility of a hike the day and that is what we intend to do!
After consulting the weather, Cerro Torre (Tower Mount) will be our first destination.
the day ahead is not really very bright but the ride will be very pleasant although very windy.

"windy", the expression is very weak to describe the conditions under which we march. To illustrate this and the wind, sometimes that we take for Marseille (!), you can see in the picture below the water of the waterfall fight against gravity instead of going back to drain!

"By earth wind squalls put me down! After a nice slip on a few meters upwind, I figured caught in the middle of the road in pebbles on ... it took me to sit in that fight stone shelters, happy all the same to see and hear this nature, which breaks out. "
OlivierOR

"Arrives to the glacier at about 12:00, a lunch break ! It was sheltered from the wind and with the dog who watched our garbage that we eat our sandwiches, we hardly have dragged us back on the road to keep warm. "
Helene

hellish conditions encountered at the Laguna Torre does not permit us to continue up to the viewpoint.

The cerro hiding behind the clouds ...

It was here we had to turn back.

Of the 11 kilometers back, we were accompanied by multiple rainbows and the 6 hour walk n'entamerent hardly our courage and we went to an exhibition on the region at the center of park visitors.

Did you know for example that Patagonia was the last place being occupied by a continental human populations 12,500 years ago and that these early humans were nomads who survived thanks to the gathering, hunting and fishing?

Did you know that these men used first the guanaco as "raw material"?

Everything is good in the guanaco! The coat to make clothes, boots and canvas tent, to anoint the body fat and better withstand the cold, bones as tools for hunting (arrows, hooks) and sewing (needles), nerves and tendons to the strings of bows ...

And returning to the show, we found this!

The last group living before the arrival of English colonists was the "Tehuelches" and unfortunately this tribe was decimated by the "process" well-known settlement in the sixteenth century: the massacre, epidemics, changes in habitat and way of life ...
We conclude the day "physical and cultural" with a good little meal concocted by us at the hostel. And yes, the squirrel and the ant Olivier Helene had their races before joining the Los Glaciares park! Be proactive and economy helps us meet our daily budget was ...

The next day, getting up, we could not imagine that we would spend a good day ... 12.5 km walk are scheduled to meet at the foot of Mount Fitz Roy and the surrounding chain of mountains that peak legendary.

As expected, the weather was clear, and as a measure of our progress, be stripped of their summits clouds, uncommon at this time of year in the words of the premises.
Consider:

These summits atypical no resemblance to our French mountain forms there were over 18 million years.
Under the Earth's surface, the magma that formed these mountains fought his way through layers of sedimentary rocks that already existed, but without reaching the surface, slowly cooling path. There are 6 million years, the pressure of the tectonic plates will raise the cold magma and solid (at the same time as the Cordillera of the Andes). Then a glacier thickness of 900 to 1400 m covers everything. These large masses of moving ice have eroded, hollow, worn and broken rock in their path, exposing what was buried.
is the same phenomenon that created the Torres (towers) Park Torres del Paine in Chile (see previous article).

the last climb of 400m in altitude for two kilometers long is challenging (35 min). The trail is eroded gradually covered with snow and ice and on arrival the view of the Fitz Roy and Laguna de Los Tres is breathtaking:

... A memorable picnic feet in the snow, head caressed by the rays of the sun and the mind elsewhere.

But really, you know What does the name Fitz Roy?
Sir Fitzroy was the captain of the vessel "HMS Beagle" which in 1839 sailed to the discovery of Patagonia and its people. Another famous passenger accompanied him in one of his trips to flesh out his theory of evolution. According to you:
a / Robinson Crusoe?
b / Butch Cassidy?
c / Charles Darwin?

In honor of the explorer Captain was appointed as the mountain of 3442m, according to specialists, one of the most difficult climb in the world (first ascent in 1952 by a french). But
also commonly called Fitz Roy, the chain of this part of the Andes, three peaks are named for heroes french : Have you!

"Here's a quick sketch on my sketchbook ..." Olivier

Who are we?
We are legends of aeropostale. We flew over the Andes established the first mail communications between Buenos Aires and Punta Arenas (southern Chile) ...
our names are Anthony for a Mount), John for Mount b) for c and Henry) ...
We are, we are ... A
index is in the rest of this article!

were walking off the watchtower, we meet a few finnish meeting days earlier in Chile. Unfortunately for him, his two-hour time difference with us will not allow him to enjoy the fabulous view because the conditions change very quickly and a heavy mist shrouded mountains henceforth all.

The return of the excursion will be a gentle pace, with hunger, and legs a little heavy.

your opinion, what is it?

one does not tire ... will have to go! one last look at this treasure of nature

In the crossing of a forest, we lack almost a good meeting: with full preservation during our descent, sounds unusual at first attracted our ears and make us stop anywhere. We scour the countryside and ... AC is our gaze rests on three woodpeckers have red head. They pound the trunks of trees and seem to speak.

at a velvet approach we try to observe them more closely. These birds are called here "carpinteros", the "carpenters."

We spend a pleasant night, dreaming of Saint Exupery, Mermoz and Guillaumet ... OH ZUT ... responses QUIZ!

This Sunday, April 26, we will make two short trips and spend a good little time alone in the video room the visitor center has several links film traces the ascent of Mount Fitz Roy and Torre.

The village of El Chaten

Under a deluge of wind and rain that we reach our bus taxi at night toward Los Antigos along the famous highway # 40 (road across Argentina from north to south about 5000 km) .
The goal here is to cross the border to return to Chile and take the Carretera Austral (another mythical road).
Arrives in Los Antigos So we'll score Chile, Chile Chico and a new club of five forms: the
Helene Dunkerque; Olivier Montrichard, Kate Canadian, German Bernd; the Israeli Amit.

Here is the fine team ... We spend a good time, Chilean wine around and comic p'tites home to discuss and exchange our ways of life.
Amit who lives in a kibbutz has won the prize for the interest and we all invited to join the end of the year ...

The Famous 5 on the boat for the crossing of Lake General Carrera in the direction of Coyhaique, Chile still.

In Coyhaique, we must revise our itinerary. It's the end of the season and the bus companies n'assurent to certain directions only two trips a week. We decide to zap has reluctantly Bariloche and Nahuel Huapi National Park to stay in Argentina to Chile and back on the Villarrica National Park, has the same latitude.
we do not have the guide of Chile and it is sometimes difficult to predict an itinerary for the tourist offices only provide information on their own region (there are 15 regions in Chile). At 16h
that day, we headed for the city of Osorno. However the only possibility to reach Osorno (Chile) departing from Cohayque (Chile) is through Argentina (!): No other route exists for this trip!
border crossing, verification bags because it is forbidden to transport food from animals and plants (see photo previous article). Now we have some apples picked from the garden of the hostel Cohayque ... What to do? These fruits being so nice after a long bus ride at night? We try and conceal the blow on the bus ... Mission accomplished!
Osorno is a step or we supply and where we will enjoy dining in the municipal market.

L a local specialty is a seafood soup (2000 pesos Chilenos about 3 euros). Or seen our "food culture" it is very difficult to eat mussels without fries! And it seems even more, moules frites without beer! So on the table while we were together for a noun in the middle of a very local atmosphere. For decency, we do not dare to photograph the customers of the restaurant, but believe our word, we felt really at the bottom end of a Chilean province.

A few hours later (22h), we find ourselves in Switzerland ... Torre has Suissa, an inn in the town of Villarica held by a couple of chipmunks. Everything is "nickel chrome", very clean and agency. The heat of the stove and good little bf we can start the day.

"Me knowing in the lakes region, I decided to wander in the morning looking for info on fly fishing! Then I was invited to a Chilean family of Santiago came to spend their long May Day weekend on Lake Villarrica. We talked of life and the French know it, Chileans are like the french dirty people who do that very rarely wash and scent that much ... missing is the stick under his arm! They are also persuaded that we hate the Germans, remains our enemies since the end of 1945! Surprised and offended by the lag in my Latin pride, the teacher I am, then tried a quick course of history from the landing of Louis XIV 1944.
Regarding fishing, the nearby town of Pucon seem more suitable to my desire. "Olivier

" I too have been vexed! At the hostel there were french Bordeaux and when I told them I had just Dunkirk, they laughed way too sarcastic to my taste! The northerner that I was touched "by heart" and after a lengthy discussion of the wealth of my area, I managed to blow! "Helene
.

In this after noon on May 1, we will work our calves and rent bikes. The program sports excursion to Lake Ray Lican 28 km.

" In After nine miles, I turned back, pedaling on a long straight road with cars moving very fast I did not! So I "lost" around Villarica in dirt roads bordering pastures ... "Helene
.

" As for me, I faced the elevations (700 m in total), 2:20 to find myself later on a peninsula at the lake with snow capped volcanoes for company.
Unfortunately, wanting to capture this place, I then noticed that my camera (or rather that of Celine that my darling-me-la-adorably-ready), it seems, had made the soul. I ate my sandwich and my ATV renfourchai to return before nightfall. Nine km on a gravel road then twenty-one on the road, and always those pesky 700 meters, made me come to the slams Torre Suissa! While I was long and I played a bit with the dog's owner, Helen we prepare delicious spaghetti bolognese! Thank you Helen! Needless to say that the shower (if yes! I washed ...) and the meal had the better of me and my sleep was deep. "Olivier

That evening, we will decide to leave Villarica of the next morning so we had to Pucon (one half hour by bus) to wander in a National Park (yes again) and to fish (Olivier).

We here in the park or Huerquehue we find Fanny and Eric Torres del Paine at meetings and Celine and Yannick, two Swiss.

Marielle leaves us with his camera, here are some pictures of lagoons and Araucaria, the trees in the corner.

With a little imagination, you can see the skeleton of a dinosaur!

Here is an Araucaria

The vegetation is dense and sometimes you feel very small ...

Off the Villarica volcano

picnic in the sun beside the lagoon ...

a remake of "Gorilla in the Mist"?

come home soon, we will eat leftover bolognese carefully preserved ... in a plastic bottle! And yes we did with the means at hand!

rainy Sunday, happy fisherman!

"Those who know me know that I often decided at the last moment! Today is the last opening day of fishing on the river! In addition it is a Sunday! I was lucky to find Fishing open an agency and I benefit even a clement weather throughout the after noon pass on the Rio Liucura.

Covered by a combination of waterproof neoprene and accompanies Pablo, fishing guide, here I am exploring the River. I start to fishing with a Rapala (lure), weather conditions not being favorable for fly fishing.
exhilarating feeling than to slide over the water, cradled by the waves of the river, the light wind in the trees and the sound of the reel, spear and brought back my nylon thread. Pablo directs the boat, the bait attracts the trout and I'm smiling at this moment!.

Here I took a brown trout of about 2.5 pounds per 50 cm. It rose to more than 60 cm above water in a last hope of getting the hook from its mouth ... For me, dazzling show!

a "no-kill" and a perfect Olivier REUX-ER!

"A rainy Sunday but pleasant with rain and wind that slammed scolded, I spent all after noon to Talk around the stove with Else, a Belgian Antwerp. We wondered how could he Olivier salmon fishery ... fishing was successful but the trout Lax! "
Helene

In Hostel" El Refugio "in Pucon, we spend our last hours in Chile. We must go back to Santiago (1052 km) to go the Argentinian side boundary. Indeed, we are expected around May 20 in southern Bolivia on a farm where we volunteer in exchange for room and board. This practice is called "woofing" ... Stay tuned ...
Meanwhile, Argentina still has many treasures and the 15 days we have left need to be well utilized.
Most tourists cross the border into Argentina and go directly into the city of Mendoza. We choose to stop us, barely crossed the border, in the tiny village of Puente del Inca, 3 km from the Aconcagua Provincial Park.

Chile adios ...

In the tunnel of the Chile-Argentina border 3200m altitude.

The originality of this "corn" is its natural bridge of limestone concretions accumulated since the last ice age on earth.

Actually, this village is especially with these 2700m above sea level, a starting point for climbing the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas: the Aconcagua which culminates at 6962m.

here in early May, the season is over, and we authorize the guards a little stroll to the mirador.

Head in the mountains ...

... and down to earth!

"For my future brother beloved brother William, I devote myself body and soul, and compete in the English guardaparques (provincial park wardens) to obtain a maximum degree of information about climbing the mountain. "
Helene

view opposite to Aconcagua with rocky folds of the Andean Cordillera.

"William! Hang on! You'll have to rent a mule to carry the equipment and especially get used 2 or 3 days at these dizzying heights! "
Helene.

For our part, we can not resign ourselves to leave this sight so quickly, and take advantage of beautiful weather (it snowed yesterday!) To make a nap in the sun, exhausted by the journey bus and altitude.

We will even wake up because the bus has taken him that we share Mendoza was 17h. However, we attempt the coup ... inch!
Rally Mendoza stop (adedo Castilian) ... and it works!

Esteban, a young truck driver took us to his trailer.

"We did not wait very long until a truck stops ... Yeah! genial! a truck! Esteban driving, Olivier and me on the couch in front ... J'adoooooore trucks! ... a great time! The beautiful scenery unfolding before our eyes at the sound of local radio and conversations with esteban. These 3h30 trip increased too fast and when he had to "jump" of the truck, I had a twinge of regret, I was party to back the whole of America in the semi trailer! ".
Helene

" Oh the mate! Finally a word about this drink, this ritual, this spirit of Argentina!
Mate is an infusion of herbs that are found everywhere (!), Sold in packs of 500g for example. These herbs pine, eucalyptus and other (?) From two northern provinces of the country. Argentines drink it from 1 to 5 liters per day! The preparation of his mate and tasting are part of the culture.
You must fill in 2 / 3 of your gourd grass - gourd being the recipient of the most popular - and then fill it with boiling water. All you have to hunt drink (without burning the tongue ...) with your bombilla ... The Bombilla is a straw with a filter at the end thereof to prevent the grass clippings go back up your throat. Here too, there are all kinds of bombillas, gold, silver, engraved ...
Once empty, you must fill out the gourd and pass it to your neighbor in the direction of clockwise as the mate to share ... Bombilla and remains the same. Pure mate says "amargo" and "dulce" with a little sugar. During a break
control of its load, it is natural Esteban we prepared a mate, leaving the tanks from his truck's gas tank and all the trappings ...
aware that any self-respecting Argentine always walked around with a thermos of hot water, the grass, his calabash and Bombilla Para tomar (to drink) and his mate or when he wants ... by very practical but true!
I will try to bring in France bombilla ... and we s'debrouillera for herbs. "
OlivierOR

We leave here on a motorway in Mendoza, unharmed in search of a hotel!
you soon!