Almost at the end of the world, 51degres 43 'south latitude.
We are only at 0330 El Calafate (Patagonia Argentina) and have therefore spent the border to visit the town of Puerto Natales.
From here we will arrange our trek in Torres Del Paine National Park.
And the word organization is not to be taken lightly: we set 6 days and 5 nights in complete autonomy in the park or emerge from the Pampas fabulous granite mountains.
Regarding equipment, we rent:
- 1 tent three places (expensive but spacious for our templates, resistant to the conditions climate that we think meet);
- 2 mats; - 2 pairs of walking sticks (necessary to balance and boost the speed of walking);
- 3 small bottles of gas.
- 1 package of 250 grams of rice;
- 1 package of 200 grams of dough "angel hair"; - 4 packages of precooked Chinese noodles (80g);
- - 1 package of 5 sausages type Knacki "
- 1 package of sliced cheese;
- 2 packets of dry soup;
- 2 packets of fruit juice powder;
- 6 packets of biscuits;
- 13 cereal bars;
- 1.5 bar of chocolate;
- 2 packets of raisins;
- 2 bags of almonds;
- 2 apples.
After three days for rent buy, collect, store and close our bags, we're pumped to frolic like guanacos in the mountains.
the guanacOlivier ...
the camp until ADMINISTRATION PAINE GRANDE;
pencil red pencil purple : Distance: 17 km actual walking time (ie with our pee breaks, snacks, movies and photos ...): 06.00.
The bus deposited us in the park at the end of his journey to 12.00. For reasons of economy for a boat ride, and want to go quietly to the meeting of the atmosphere of this Nature wild, as we begin the trek through this portion. Each of our two bags weigh between 15 and 18 kg
This relatively easy trail brings us into his leg.
A good pace and regular breaks to admire the scenery and feel the quiet solitude of walking ... and some dried fruit snack ... allows us to reach the camping area just before nightfall, or 6:30 p.m. ...
Premiere night in tents so ...
OlivierOR
" I was cold that night there, but you know, the bitter cold that pierces the skin gradually, grease and settled overnight in the bones. That morning, the alarm clock was a release in less than two and a half seconds, I was raised! "
Helene
DAY 2:
Round Trip Camp Paine Grande to the glacier viewpoint GREY pencil in purple yellow pencil : Distance: 12 km
We get up with the rain ... A half hour later we have lunch with Eric and Fanny who complete their W and reassure us about the time in the park Torres del Paine: The four seasons are sometimes visit the same day!
On Loved 10:00, so we take a acalmie and climb the path toward the viewpoint of the Grey Glacier.
For this return, we let tent and large bags at the camp.
"What a beautiful walk! The arrival at the viewpoint is splendid, sun glare ice on the lake and give the place a feeling of unreality. Icebergs detached remind me that the air is cool ... in fact I walk jacket open in shirtsleeves, and even for the return I start to run downhill, jumping USING sticks of boulders, like a skier racing down the slippery slopes. My legs and knees surprise me and it makes one a fool! Deception relative arriving at camp, there are more T-shirt souvenir of the trek W. .. never mind, forget this purchase under a hot shower and cold to invigorate legs. Tonight, stretching forces! "
OlivierOR
We also enjoy beautiful fall colors worthy of an Indian summer ...
PAINE GREAT camp to camp Británico;
pencil violet blue pencil : Distance: 13 km actual running time: 07:00.
We fold the tent for the first time and "rechaussons" our "bundle". The sky is clear, the sun shines ... after half an hour, we remove our "layers" (jacket and polar).
Water is taken directly to the river ...
The views of the lake and the peaks of Paine Grande are splendid.
As we walk at a brisk pace, we change our plans: we will sleep in camp instead Britanico camp Italiano. Fastest access, but more dark and damp, most of the hikers stop here to join the viewpoint Britanico then a return no bag in the morning. For us, it is here that things get complicated!
The ascent to the camp, along the "Valley French" is difficult: very windy, the trail begins on a scree.
The we're glad to have each rented a pair of walking sticks! These are real additional support that we balance, we hoist and propel us along the path.
the scenery (not scroll so fast ca parade but anyway ...) is very varied, sometimes we find ourselves in groves fall colors worthy yet (!) D an Indian summer in Quebec, sometimes we are close to the creek, deafened by the strong current. The trail becomes muddy and slippery ...
is very different from the steps of the previous days and the nature
Exhausted and proud of ourselves, we arrive at Britanico HAPPY ... empty of any sign of life! We are the only ones to sleep here tonight, surrounded by the hum of the stream fed by melting ice and under a starry sky as only the southern hemisphere can offer!
"Even today, my legs thank you! Any other effort than yesterday but I feel no pain. It feels great to be worn by the scenery, for the pleasure of the effort the beauty of the place ... and simplicity of nature. That evening in camp I think I'm Charles Ingalls fetching water from the river ... But at night .. courage me quickly default to fetch only the same water ... Two is better! Strange this fear that comes from deep within oneself, thinking back unwittingly to short horror films that had been buried and or lost in the wilderness "hostile," I have to force it into perspective, to think that are only special effects ... ! Reality star will reach the sky but the night slowly am'apaiser fresh in my sleeping bag too cramped legs remain agitated. "
OlivierOR
" Not really cowards usual, the camp Britanico I had several times the heart that has accelerated ... An hour after our arrival we were completely in the dark, with only airline noise of the river and the song of the wind in the trees. Fortunately, a starry sky like never reassured me a bit ... We eat sheltered under an old canvas between two trees and when Oliver went to fetch water at the river I found myself all alone for five minutes ... and I had time to imagine stories worthy of horror movies. After I put in "Pajama Trek" jersey, two polar jacket, hat and gloves, I slipped completely refrigerated in the sleeping bag and I tried to sleep ... except that an urge to go made me hesitate for a little time, I go, I will not, I'm going, I will not ... I finally opted for the first solution: move would perhaps get warm. fatigue and cold were Because of me and I finally fell into a semi sleep. All night I waited for the alarm and what a relief it is five o'clock in the morning when we had to get up! "
Helene
DAY 4:
Británico camp to camp until then MIRADOR LOS Cuernos pencil blue pencil green : Distance: 13 km
Purpose of dawn: join the viewpoint is an hour from our camp (yes OUR camp!). The fatigue of the day appears to have disappeared ... Is it stretching the evening or the rhythm of the days keep coming?
We hope to watch the sunrise over the surrounding peaks: Cerro Forteleza, Cerro Escudo ... unfortunately, our sunrise, time does not appear to play: fine rain, dense clouds and gusts of wind.
During the first twenty minutes of the ascent it is with our headlamps as we identify somehow the yellow path. By the light of day we arrive on the last portion, the most exposed to the wind!
The view is completely blocked and should quickly take shelter against a rocky ledge to avoid the lashing rain and the cold piercing .
a cereal bar and took off again! We hardly have the time or inclination to stay (because of the time) ... and the day is long.
Back at camp: we're full of energy with a lil bf therefore: pasta!
Quickly done and done well (if not close the bags!) We bend luggage ... and borrow the same path as yesterday downhill this time. The rain did not stop, we're all wrapped up in our thicknesses and covered with our waterproof jacket, like our bags. We do not hardly enjoy the view, being concentrated on every step to avoid mud puddles, stones ... not counting the wind that we imbalance!
About two hours later, a well-deserved break at the first camp Italiano.
Everything changes: the landscape, the mountains give way to lakes, rain and wind in the sun! Remain the mud on the road!
We will not be unhappy to get to the camp fee "Los Cuernos" or we can benefit from a shower and a refectory in the wood burning stove heater - handy for Chess sauchettes!
"As should have been paying the gas for cooking, it's like two unfortunate that through the gusts of wind we used our own burner on the steps of the refectory."
Helene
The place is sold, warmer ... So Helen has stayed really well.
"When the march of the day is over, there is laundry ... But it is at this moment the need to be effective precisely to go to bed as soon as possible!
1 / Find a location: a flat area with little pebbles 2 / Mount tent
4 / Prepare the meal;
5 / Taste 80g of noodles and sauce of Strasbourg (Hum's good!). When expenditure was like this all day, a regale us anything, and I shall have multiplied by four doses ... But since everything was planned and calculated ADVANCE, what you eat in one day more, that's what you do not eat the next day ... "
" I am very satisfied with the purchases I made for my trip. In conditions like today, jacket, fleece, shirt, pants, tights had their role to ensure tightness and ventilation. My shoes are very well adapted and my backpack offers what is expected of him: maintenance and storage tips. Both team have caught more laughter in the wind and rain, happy to be there! "
DAY 5:
camp to camp Cuernos LOS TORRES
green pencil pencil orange : Distance: 18 km
running time Effective: 07:00.
Photos taken in the rather easy ...
And, little vocabulary point: why the English verb "go" is called "experience"? "Because sometimes you experienced the rise related! . This was our case to the camp TORRES for 7 km! Not really exhausting, but a constant effort that we will arrive HS!
not unhappy to have arrived!
few shouting matches to set up the tent ... but at the time of the meal, we fall to agree to clear the reservations : A solution to alleviate the bag well to fill their bellies. Trust us, we feasted that evening!
We beat the record also bedtime: 7:30 p.m. before the chickens! A good reason for that as well as fatigue: For the finale, we'll see the sun rise on the morrow Torres, then woke up at 5:00!
"Long walk today, with long moments of solitude, not knowing whether I observe nature or if it
OlivierOR
" On the advice of Oliver who was that his grandmother Emily who ran bare-legged in the snow to keep warm when she was small. I tried to warm up my foot icicles by drowning in the river, river coming down directly from the glacier! And
bin it works! For 10 minutes I had no feeling ... and just like magic after my feet are warm! One of these remedies
grandmother of whom I shall try to remember! "
Helene
DAY 6:
camp until MIRADOR then jusqu'al'hosteria TORRES TORRES
pencil orange black pencil : Distance: 10 km
actual running time: 05:00.
Biiiiiiiiip Biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip Bip. It is 05h00, Chile awakens. Dress super fast, we do well in the tent, lamp at the front for the final climb of the trek vantage point!
p'tite A climb of 20 minutes with a good already tilted up to reach a mountain of rocks!"Start on site - something rare in my case! - I could see the lights of other hikers on the path below. I began to climb this huge mound of stones and rocks, the sun would soon make its appearance and I knew the time was Helen ... thank you for waking up! I was going more to the left as possible on the ridge of rocks to enjoy the sight of the broader these towers of granite and the lagoon at their base. What up what my breakfast has three: the sun, Torres and me.
But ooh! the late morning was hard to swallow! Following bad advice on the length of the return journey, so called 0600, I went down too early in the Torres viewpoint. Yes I saw the sun rise and illuminate the towers, but I miss the burning peak at the height Sunrise ... I had already almost Devalle the slope of rocks to begin to fold the tent when I'm back.
I regret those moments miscalculated. I'm wanted for failing to take advantage "of the moment," the top, thinking back a bit too! Back at camp, your tent will help me some one to spend my nerves! "
Using hands and knees, I finally get there and what a show ... amazing: the sun that struck the towers gave them a color unreal pulling on a yellow for a dazzling intensity. The time to eat a cereal bar as a little bf and it was already down ... "
Reflecting Torres in the lagoon ...
Back at camp, we put ourselves in the way at 09:00 am, so as not to miss the only bus that leaves daily at 14.00 from the luxurious hospedaje Torres. We leave behind us the beautiful scenery that will enchant us during this short week. We will go down in good company, with Nos. 6 french friends: Lydia Vincent and the Hautes Alpes, Stephanie and Jeremy, and Phillipp Sebastien Toulouse.
We arrive well before the scheduled time (sic) and even take the time to cook our noodles on the last steps of the same hosteria!
The cozy comfort of the bus was right on us and we will not see anything of the journey to Puerto Natales!
After a shower, had given rendezvous between french, the restaurant "La casa de Pablito" conger, salmon, beer, wine, ice and custard for gourmands.
We will stay two more days in Puerto Natales story deflate our knees and our clothes are drying.
enchanted and captivated by the park Torres del Paine, we decide to sign for other walks in the park Los Glaciares in Argentina to El Chalten.
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